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ROCK CLIMBING IN BULGARIA
These lime rocks in the Balkan Range are solid and with varied relief, which makes them very appropriate for free climbing. There are dozens of routings with different length (up to 10-12 ropes) and levels of difficulty (up to 7th-8th level). They are well marked and secured by safety wedges. The approach is very easy. The climbing is up vertical walls and ledges and the descending is performed through repelling or follows roundabout routes.
The mountain climbing sites are grouped mainly in the vicinity of Maliovitsa peak. This seems to be the paradise for the mountaineers in Bulgaria. The rocks are of solid coarse-grained granite. The routings are marked and equipped with safety wedges. The difficulty level can be up to 6th-7th level and the maximum rope length is 5 to 7 ropes. The climbing style is mainly free but there are routings where artificial supports are used. The approach starts from Maliovitsa chalet and it takes an hour or two to reach most of the climbing sites from there. Beautiful peaks with an altitude of 2500-2700 m are climbed from which there is a panoramic view of the whole mountain.
Climbing sites in the area of peaks like Vihren, Sinanitza, Jengal, Atmegdan and others. They require longer passages (2-3 hours). The most impressive and most frequently visited climbing site is the North wall of Vihren peak where the level change is 400 m, which is the biggest in Bulgaria. This is the Bulgarian Aiger. The rock consists of lime and marble and is highly friable. Nevertheless, there are 7 or 8 routings with length of up to 13 ropes and up to 5th level of difficulty. Only some of them are equipped with safety wedges. The style of climbing is free and the typical chimneys and ledges are used. The approach is from Vihren chalet and it takes 2 hours. The descent is performed through Vihren peak (2915 m), which is the highest peak in Pirin.Discover Bulgaria - the best kept secret of the Balkans !
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